Posts tagged: Technique

Nov 22 2009

An Introduction to Rock Climbing

Rock climbing did not start to become a sport in its own right until the latter part of the 1900s. At first, rock climbing was just a necessary part of mountain climbing: the set of techniques that one had to make use of in order to scale sheer rock faces. However, with climbing locations around the world that are specially suited to this and only this style of climbing, rock climbing has become a popular pastime. While rock climbing may still be necessary for some mountain ascents, most people who rock climb for fun climb at relatively low altitudes, where weather conditions and lack of oxygen are not major concerns and where attention can be focused on the techniques of climbing.

Usually when ascending a vertical surface, climbers work together in pairs. One of the rock climbers will move further up the face of the rock, while the other stays where he or she is. Both of the climbers will be linked by a rope, and the lower climber will give the upper climber a longer length of rope using a belaying device as the climber ascends (the length of rope between the two should be minimized in order to prevent the strength of sudden jerking motions which take place if one of the climbers drops). When the lead climber falls, the distance that he or she falls will be twice that of the length of rope between the lead climber and the climber belaying the rope. Modern climbing rope is designed with a certain degree of elasticity to help absorb the shock of a fall without breaking, and the rope is usually threaded through a series of sharp curves on a belay device which prevent the rope from running loose and the lead climber from falling any farther.

Once the lead climber has ascended a short vertical distance, he or she will set up an anchor system using bolted hangers and / or spring loaded cams to secure the belaying equipment on his end of the rope to the rock. After that, the lead climber will take a rest and become the second, while the second becomes the lead climber and passes by on the way up. By taking advantage of such a system, the process of climbing is made much safer, and as long as the belaying system is safely secured to the outcroppings and niches of the rock face both of the climbers should be able to protect each other with a safety line that is always in place. Only in special conditions should rock climbers attempt to “move together”, or both climb at once, as this leaves them without a solid support and if one falls the other may be dragged off as well. When moving together, the lead climber will usually place a large number of handhold supports into the face of the rock to help the second hang on if there is an accident, but this is still very risky. Climbers must always remember to exercise proper safety precautions for a fun, controlled ascent.

Nov 16 2009

The Secrets of Balance Climbing

Balance climbing is used to climb rock formations. As a climber you must study the route you are to travel, to ensure that you have chosen the best route and have the proper equipment. Before setting out, you should mentally climb the route you have chosen to anticipate future events or incidents.

The proper technique of balance climbing involves the following: v Eyes. As a climber, you must observe the entire route selected to climb. Use your eyes to climb the pitch. You should identify handholds and footholds, possible belay positions, alternate routes, rest spots, and a route for down climbing or descending. You must use your eyes continuously to look for subsequent handholds and footholds, and rest positions. As well as to continue planning and revision of the route. v Body Position. As you move and climb, your body must be in balance; that is, your weight must be centred over your feet. Use your hands mainly for balance, and support you body weight with your legs.

If you lean in toward a rock, your feet will not hold well; you must keep your body out and away from the rock to counter the gravitational pull of the body. With your body in balance, move with a slow, rhythmic motion. If possible try to maintain three points of contact with the rock, such as two hands and one foot.

Avoid a spreadeagle position, since you must stretch too far and cannot let go without falling. When you reach a position of security try to rest, since tensed muscles tire quickly. Allow for circulation by keeping your arms as low as possible, and while you relax,take the opportunity to plan your next move.

When selecting handholds, you should keep your hands about waist-to-shoulder level. This allows you the desired upright, balanced position as well as resting your arms. It is better to use small, intermediate holds rather than stretching and clinging to widely separated holds. Handholds may susequently become footholds. Your arms or legs should not be crossed, nor should you use your knees or elbows as handholds or footholds.

There is an acronym that will help you remember the proper procedures during balance climbing. CASHWORTH.

C – Conserve energy.

A – Always test holds.

S – Stand upright on flexed joints.

H – Hands kept low; handholds should be waist-to-shoulder high.

W – Watch your feet.

O – On three points of contact; avoid using knees and elbows; avoid awkward, out of balance positions.

R – Rhythmic movement.

T – Think and plan ahead.

H – Heels kept lower than toes, and pointed inwards.

Learn this and you will be one step ahead of the game.

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